205 Basic Build

This is a short resume of the basics required to build a 205 GTI 1.6 to Challenge specification. It is not meant as an exhaustive guide more as a quick reference for all the vital jobs that need to be carried out before you can rally your 205.

Also you may wish to view a pictorial account of our 205 shell build.

Initial shell preparation and reinforcement

  1. Locate a complete car. The shell must be as near to rust free as possible but if the engine is unsound this need not be problem as a rebuild can cost under £400 (this should be reflected in the price of course). A shell without a sunroof is preferable as a new roof skin costs £100 and requires some specialist work to fit. Cars can be picked up for under £400 and often as little as £100 if a major component has failed
  2. Working inside the car, strip all interior trim, including seats, carpets, sound proofing and headlining.
  3. Remove the underseal around where the roll cage plates fit and any other areas that need plating.
  4. Continuous MIG weld all roll cage plating (this is one are where it is wise to employ the services of an expert if you are in doubt about your abilities). The cage will need to be “offered up” to the plates several times in order to get it to fit correctly
  5. It is advisable to fit front strut reinforcement plates. These need to be non-continuously welded in and will require the front struts removing in order to fit them
  6. Weld box section seat runners in position (as with point 4 this work needs to be done professionally).
  7. Weld seat belt mountings in, again making sure that the welding is up to scratch.
  8. The front seam where the floor meets the bulkhead often comes apart and so needs to be seam welded
  9. At this point it is wise to fit any interior lines, including braided brake and petrol pipes.
  10. Fit cage and door bars.
  11. Fit and plumb in extinguishers. These are fairly simple to install.
  12. Fit engine cut off master switch and associated cable pulls (or wiring if electronically operated). Don’t forget the warning stickers
  13. Fit the navigators footrest
  14. Fit the competition seats
  15. Fit the harnesses
  16. Fit the warning triangle
  17. Fit first aid kit
  18. Fit spare wheel and wheelbrace restraints
  19. A small leather competition wheel is a nice touch as is a driver’s footrest though they are not essential

External preparation

  1. A chassis brace needs to be fitted between the front chassis legs. This can be bought or fabricated.
  2. To this brace is mounted a plastic (expensive) or aluminium sump guard
  3. Steel or plastic tank guards are then attached to the under body of the car. The steel guards can be carefully bent from 2mm steel sheet.
  4. A steel guard is then fabricated for the petrol filler neck
  5. Whether you use a competition exhaust or not it is advisable to “skid” and reinforce the pipes and silencer where they may come into contact with rocks. Pay particular attention to strengthening mountings.
  6. Fix all external plastic trim with self-tapping screw. The trim will fly off at the first sign of an argument with the scenery!
  7. Mudlfaps all round can be fabricated out of special material or some people even use belting from draught proof doors.
  8. In order to be recognised fit some white door squares for your competition numbers
  9. Don’t forget to mark your towing eyes in case of the unthinkable…

Mechanical

  1. Assuming that you are going to be fitting a limited differential (this is not mandatory nor essential but is a must if you want to win) the driveshafts will need removing. Next, with the eight bolts securing the differential housing taken out, you can remove the differential, swap the crown wheel to the new LSD and refit together with new oil.
  2. It is highly recommended that you fit Bilstein competition suspension if you want to avoid pogoing. The rear conversion consists purely of replacing the dampers whilst the front comes as kit that replaces the entire strut and requires that the existing hub be split from the front strut.
  3. The rear torsion bars and anti-roll bar must remain standard but it is worth checking for any play in the swinging arms as play in the bearings can cause wander. Check that the stub axles aren’t bent and that the trailing arms aren’t coming away from the swinging arm tubes – they may need welding in place
  4. Whilst you are working on the front suspension it is well worth considering fitting either rose jointed or Peugeot Talbot Sport bottom arms as these have a stronger ball joint
  5. Check the steering rack and linkage for play and renew if in doubt
  6. After checking the brake callipers and/or slave cylinders thoroughly new competition pads and/or shoes can be fitted. If any braking component’s condition is on doubt renew it.
  7. The standard gear linkage can be retained but it is worth renewing any of the plastic ball joints if they are at all worn.
  8. Moving onto the engine a K&N filter can be fitted, though the power increase will not be huge. The induction kit removes all the trunking from over the engine and locates the filter behind the nearside headlight
  9. If you are absolutely confident that your engine is in tip-top condition it can be left well alone, otherwise it would not go amiss to lift the cylinder head to confirm that the head gasket and bores are in good condition. Often even a smoky engine needs only new rings and cylinder bore hone plus new valve guide seals
  10. Check the radiator and cooling system for leaks. Renew if in doubt
  11. The battery needs to be held securely with an angle iron clamp that secures it rigidly to the tray for the scrutineer to be happy
  12. Similarly the brake master cylinder reservoir needs a cable tie round it to stop it becoming airborne over a big yump!
  13. The throttle will also need an external spring – an extension spring from your local ironmonger will suffice
  14. Continuing with the scrutineer theme they will require for your battery earth lead to be yellow in the case of an electrical fire – yellow insulation tape does the job.

A few hundred Jubilee clips, self-tappers and cable ties later your 205 Challenge car should be ready and waiting to see action. Don’t forget you to get your friendly local scrutineer to look it over and give it an RAC log book. Then after you have MOTed and taxed it, test it carefully before the first event. If there is any doubt that anything will work loose lock wire, locknut or lock washer it. Make sure that the brakes and steering feel tight and effective and don’t forget to bed the brakes in.

A rolling road is by no means essential but the tracking settings and ride height need to be spot on. You should now be ready for your first rally!